For those of us interested in a solid rifle chassis platform, check out the Whiskey 3 by Kinetic Research Group. KRG has put some thought into this one for sure. A modular platform with all the right features where you need them, the Whiskey 3 is an awesome option for those who have the cash to drop on a rock solid chassis. Check it out here:
Wednesday, April 24, 2013
Saturday, April 6, 2013
How to tie the Carrick Bend
One of my new favorite knots is the Carrick Bend. It is not technically a knot, as it is used to connect two lines together (bending). The Carrick Bend has a reputation for very secure, while being easy to untie. It is particularly useful in marine applications, where a wet rope could create jamming problems. The Carrick Bend looses a lot of strength, however, with it's sharp bends.
Begin the Carrick bend by forming a loop. A second loop will eventually be formed, and intertwined with the first loop. Place the working end of the second line underneath the first loop.

Take the working end of the unformed loop, and begin forming a second loop over the first, buy crossing over and under each section of line. if done correctly, there will be two identical loops intertwined.

This is how the complete bend should look before dressing and loading.

And this is the properly dressed Carrick Bend! Practice it a couple times and it becomes easy!
Begin the Carrick bend by forming a loop. A second loop will eventually be formed, and intertwined with the first loop. Place the working end of the second line underneath the first loop.

Take the working end of the unformed loop, and begin forming a second loop over the first, buy crossing over and under each section of line. if done correctly, there will be two identical loops intertwined.

This is how the complete bend should look before dressing and loading.

And this is the properly dressed Carrick Bend! Practice it a couple times and it becomes easy!
Saturday, March 23, 2013
Emergency communications during a disaster

During a disaster, our ability to communicate with others becomes extremely important. Communication can take many forms, including telephones, fm radios, televisions, and so forth. With all the different communication options that exist, what form of communication is best during a disaster or emergency?
The short answer, is there is no answer. With so many different forms of communication out there, it is impossible to determine which communication medium will best serve your purpose. Cellular phones are one of the most current and prevalent forms of communication, and for good reason; They are reliable, capable of communicating anywhere in the country (or world for that matter), and portable. Cellular communication is going to be the primary form of communication with anyone, prepared or not, in a disaster. During Superstorm Sandy, in New York City and other parts of the country, businesses were allowing people to charge their phones with their power supplies so that people could communicate with the outside world. In a disaster, no matter how much preparing one does and how much money one spends on equipment, the cell phone is going to be the primary source of information.
Besides the cell phone, there is one item that I recommend that any disaster-conscious person purchase: a handheld amateur radio. These radios are capable of preforming multiple functions, and you can receive information from a WIDE variety of external sources. Amateur radios are capable of listening to NOAA weather bands, police and fire frequencies, amateur weather spotting frequencies, FRS (family radio service) frequencies, marine bands, and so on. An amateur radio is so versatile that I recommend everyone purchase one. To speak on an amateur radio requires a federal license, but with a little studying, these are easy to obtain and last 10 years. Even if you don't get an amateur radio license, you can still listen to communication, you simply cannot transmit. It is extremely beneficial to be able to listen to what is happening around you. Police bands will be able to tell you exactly what is happening in your neighborhood during a disaster. In an emergency, with no other means of communication, an unlicensed person is legally allowed to transmit an emergency call for help on an amateur radio, thus, owning one could saver your life.

The radio pictured above is a Baofeng UV-5R. It is OBVIOUSLY not American made, but this is a cheap, reliable radio that can be owned by anyone for $40 US Dollars. I have two of them, and carry one with me daily. The UV-5R's are amazingly versatile. They are equipped with FM radio, marine frequencies, NOAA weather frequencies, VHF and UHF frequencies which will allow you to listen to most local emergency responders, and they even have a flashlight feature. At this cost, anyone can purchase and own an amateur radio that they can use to listen to and communicate with. A radio similar to this should be a part of everyone's emergency disaster kit, and at $40, you should have one in the house, and in each vehicle you own.
Alternative forms of communication include CB radios, FRS radios, shortwave radios, televisions, etc. But I feel that none of these options have the versatility that you could have with an amateur radio, and I would highly recommend you keep one as a way to learn what is happening around you.
Wednesday, February 27, 2013
Getting started in blacksmithing
It should come as no surprise to most who know me that I have some abnormal hobbies. Well, abnormal is subjective, because I think it is totally normal. I have always had a fascination with the "old way" of doing things. I enjoy making things by hand, with traditional tools. I love to study technology from early time periods...firecraft, homesteading, tool making, and self reliance. So one day I decided that I wanted to learn something new: Blacksmithing!
My interest began like most my interests do...on the internet, doing research. I eventually purchased a book and began to learn about the art. From the techniques used to create things, to how to build the forge. Going to a local scrap yard, I was able to speak with the owner, who happened to have an anvil for me. a 136 pound, rusty, crude looking anvil. He cut me a deal, $10.00, to get it out of his shop. Little did I know what that hunk of metal I bought was valued at!

A little clean up with a wire wheel, and the anvil became a much prettier piece of steel! I was able to identify the anvil as a Arm and Hammer, worth much more than $10.00 to say the least.

So once I bought the anvil, it was time to build the forge and stand. The forge design was easy. One search on Google and I came of with the brake drum forge. Thanks to a guy at work, I got my hands on a drum for free. Then I bought some sections of 2 inch black pipe to create the forge base piping. The drum is attached to the floor flange by drilling holes and simply bolting it on.

Then I bought two sections of 6x4 treated lumber. I measured the right length and cut the sections. I had trouble cutting them all to the right length, so I had to put some work into evening them out. I then used some hardwood for a top and bottom plate. (The anvil rusted a little since it was sitting in the garage during a temperature swing. A little more wire wheel treatment should get rid of it).

And that's it! My poor neighbors may soon hear the ping! ping! ping! of metal being pounded and twisted into awesomeness.
My interest began like most my interests do...on the internet, doing research. I eventually purchased a book and began to learn about the art. From the techniques used to create things, to how to build the forge. Going to a local scrap yard, I was able to speak with the owner, who happened to have an anvil for me. a 136 pound, rusty, crude looking anvil. He cut me a deal, $10.00, to get it out of his shop. Little did I know what that hunk of metal I bought was valued at!

A little clean up with a wire wheel, and the anvil became a much prettier piece of steel! I was able to identify the anvil as a Arm and Hammer, worth much more than $10.00 to say the least.

So once I bought the anvil, it was time to build the forge and stand. The forge design was easy. One search on Google and I came of with the brake drum forge. Thanks to a guy at work, I got my hands on a drum for free. Then I bought some sections of 2 inch black pipe to create the forge base piping. The drum is attached to the floor flange by drilling holes and simply bolting it on.

Then I bought two sections of 6x4 treated lumber. I measured the right length and cut the sections. I had trouble cutting them all to the right length, so I had to put some work into evening them out. I then used some hardwood for a top and bottom plate. (The anvil rusted a little since it was sitting in the garage during a temperature swing. A little more wire wheel treatment should get rid of it).

And that's it! My poor neighbors may soon hear the ping! ping! ping! of metal being pounded and twisted into awesomeness.
Thursday, February 21, 2013
New website design!
Beardventures has been re-designed! I am going to start categorizing all my blog posts into the categories at the top of the page. I will reserve the main page for updates, important blog posts, and GIVEAWAYS! With any luck I will be starting some giveaways for anyone who follows my blog and comments. Details will come later!
Tuesday, February 19, 2013
Cold Weather Survival Shelter Testing
Last week a friend and I decided to go on a winter bushcraft/survival skills trip. The projected low for the night was 15 degrees with a wind chill of 9 degrees. Actual was 12 degrees, with wind chill at 6 degrees. So it was cold to say the least. The perfect night to build a debris hut!
Our first order of business was to select a suitable camp location. The property we were on had a large stream running through it, so water was not an issue. We eventually settled on a location right along the stream, and slightly elevated to stay out of the cold sink. We decided a two-person debris hut would be the most appropriate shelter given the cold conditions, so we began constructing the frame. We placed the foot end towards the wind, and constructed the hut much like a traditional debris hut, but built a flat roof connecting the two hut frames.


The sides and roof were constructed by lashing a few cross pieces to keep the framing sections from rolling off the frame.

The sides were then filled in with leaves. As long as you pile leaves starting at the bottom and building upwards, they don't fall through the framework. At least 2 feet of debris is necessary to insulate and keep the wind out.


We then started a fire, which carried us through the evening. 12 degrees was manageable with a good fire, and the woods provided plenty of dead wood for the fire. The shelter turned out to be pretty warm. We did cheat and use camp pads (hey, we can't leave ALL the luxuries behind) and sleeping bags. Without them we would have been cold, but alive!
Our first order of business was to select a suitable camp location. The property we were on had a large stream running through it, so water was not an issue. We eventually settled on a location right along the stream, and slightly elevated to stay out of the cold sink. We decided a two-person debris hut would be the most appropriate shelter given the cold conditions, so we began constructing the frame. We placed the foot end towards the wind, and constructed the hut much like a traditional debris hut, but built a flat roof connecting the two hut frames.


The sides and roof were constructed by lashing a few cross pieces to keep the framing sections from rolling off the frame.

The sides were then filled in with leaves. As long as you pile leaves starting at the bottom and building upwards, they don't fall through the framework. At least 2 feet of debris is necessary to insulate and keep the wind out.


We then started a fire, which carried us through the evening. 12 degrees was manageable with a good fire, and the woods provided plenty of dead wood for the fire. The shelter turned out to be pretty warm. We did cheat and use camp pads (hey, we can't leave ALL the luxuries behind) and sleeping bags. Without them we would have been cold, but alive!
Wednesday, February 13, 2013
Using the Vargo Titanium wood stove and Kleen Kanteen bottle

A while ago I bought a Vargo Titanium Hex stove and a Kleen Kanteen single wall stainless water bottle. Well, the stove and the bottle were just too pretty, and I just had to get them dirty, so I decided to actually get outside and play with them. Why wood stove? Well, I like the idea of not having to carry fuel. Not to mention the ambiance that even a small fire gives me. It’s that camping smell! For someone who wants less fuss, I would recommend looking into alcohol stoves, or if you prefer something even easier, then a canister or gas stove.
Tools I used to uglify my survival bottle/stove:


This is the stove. Notice how it is set up. There are several folding panels which flip up and snap into the attached base. The result is a hexagonal tube which has a single door to put combustibles inside. Everything folds down flat into that small black pouch you saw in the first picture.

The bottom has holes in it for air flow, and it sits slightly elevated. Being environmentally conscious, I like the idea here because it protects the ground and promotes leave no trace ethics every outdoorsman/outdoorswoman should strive for.

To get my water to a boil, I used my dryer lint and some wood shavings as my starter. Small twigs were added on top of that, and I ignited it using a firesteel. I then added small sticks, no longer than 3-4 inches and no thicker than a finger, since I just wanted enough fire to boil water.

Success! The fire was started. Once it was going well I closed the door, opening it occasionally to add fuel. The boil took about 10 minutes, but with practice I could get it down quicker. One of the things I noticed was how dirty cooking on a wood stove is compared to alcohol stoves. Due to the imperfect combustion of a wood fire, the bottom of your bottle becomes coated in soot. The inside of the stove does as well. Not a huge problem, but something to keep in mind when you decide to place that bottle back in your expensive backpack. The stove, of course, has that nice nylon case, so no worries there.

As light as this stove is at 4.1 ounces, this is something nice to have in the bottom of your backpack for when you underestimate how much fuel you need and run out!
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